Les Quatres Têtes, from Flickr.
This is a very nice hike, and a good change of pace from the crowds of tourists in Chamonix. Starting from just above the town of Sallanches (25 minutes from Chamonix center), we started and first passed through the Alpages of Doran. This is a beautiful valley with working farms. It forms part of a set of hikes called the Tour du Pays du Mont Blanc.
There is a refuge (you can overnight there) called the Chalet du Doran which also has refreshments like beer. We stopped and had lunch in the alpage and were visited by some of the Abondance cows grazing there. Then the path climbed up to the Arête des Saix.
From the top of the Arête was a gorgeous view of the whole Arve valley, including a wonderful view of the massif of Mont Blanc. We spent some time at the top of the Arête just relaxing and enjoying the views, taking photos. From here you can continue to climb and summit one of the Quatres Tetes (a hikable peak) or just descend straight away towards the Chalet de Mayères.
Alpen Glow on the Fiz Range, from Flickr.
At the Chalet, (which also has a mountain landing strip where several private planes and gliders landed as we had aperitifs) a rustic and filling dinner is served, including a large cheese course and finishing with some strong local eau de vie. The sunset and alpenglow against the chain of the Fiz and the Mont Blanc massif was amazing. Descent by head torch back to the parking above Sallanches, with a beautiful view of the city lights below.
Total hiking time about 4.5 hours, with plenty of relaxing and eating time in between. Height gain 900m – 1500m (depending on variant chosen). Accessible to all levels of hikers and hill walkers.
